Thursday, August 13, 2015

Recipe 34: Orange Chocolate Decadence

So far this year, I haven’t made any chocolate ice creams.  I’ve made ice cream with chocolate in it like S’mores Ice Cream and Turtle Cheesecake Ice Cream, and I’ve made ice cream that tastes good with chocolate on it like Vanilla Bean Ice Cream and Triple Coconut Ice Cream, but I’ve never made any chocolate ice cream.  The reason for this is that no one in the apartment really likes chocolate.  My sister and I are fairly indifferent to it, and my girlfriend is pretty repulsed by it, so we were all a little leery when we decided on Orange Chocolate Decadence Ice Cream from a Scoop Adventures recipe.  Would it be too chocolately?  Too sweet?  Not enough orange?  Would it languish at the back of the freezer like other, less successful samples had?

There was really no need to worry: it turned out perfectly.  The chocolate base was rich and dark like a semi-sweet dark chocolate bar, and the orange flavor was a tang at the edge of the tongue that grew with each sweet, rich spoonful.  The butterfat and sugar content was well balanced, mostly because I tweaked the original recipe (If you learn nothing else from this blog, learn this: YOU SHOULD NEVER HAVE MORE CREAM THAN MILK.  NEVER NEVER NEVER.).  It was simply perfect.  In fact, this will probably be my go-to base in the future – why mess with perfection?  ;)

Ingredients
  • Chocolate liquor
    • ½ cup cocoa powder (I used Hershey’s 100% cacao natural unsweetened)
    • ¼ cup water (you will probably have to use more – maybe 1/8 cup more)
    • 1/3 cup sugar
  • Ice Cream Base
    • 3 egg yolks
    • 1 orange
    • 2 ½ cups whole milk
    • 1 cup heavy cream
    • ½ cup sugar
    • Pinch of salt
    • ½ teaspoon vanilla extract 
Directions
  1. First make the chocolate liquor.  Combine the cocoa powder, water, and sugar in a medium saucepan over low heat (You may have to add a bit more water but don’t over-saturate.  It should be a thick liquid like chocolate syrup.).  Bring to a low boil, whisking constantly until combined.  Remove from the heat and seat aside.
  2. Next make the ice cream base.  First whisk the egg yolks in a small bowl and set aside.
  3. Now prepare the orange juice.  Use a vegetable peeler to remove the zest of the orange in large strips and set aside.  Squeeze the orange and pour the juice into a small saucepan.  Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until the juice is half its original volume – about 4 minutes.  Remove from the heat and set aside.
  4. In another medium saucepan, combine ½ cup cream, the milk, sugar, orange zest, and a pinch of salt.  Place the pan over medium heat and warm until the mixture is hot and the sugar dissolves – about 4 or 5 minutes.
  5. Temper the eggs by slowly pouring the warmed milk mixture on them ½ cup at a time, whisking constantly until combined.
  6. Return the warmed yolks to the pan with the milk mixture.  Heat this over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until the custard thickens and coats the back of the spoon – do not let it curdle.
  7. Remove the custard from the heat and pour into the saucepan with the chocolate liquor.  Add the reserved orange juice and remaining ½ cup cream and stir to combine.  Set aside to cool.
  8. Once cool, add the vanilla extract and stir.  Then cover and refrigerate until well chilled – at least 4 hours or overnight.
  9. Once chilled, remove the zest from the base by pouring through a fine-mesh sieve.  Pour the base into an ice cream maker’s canister and churn according to directions.
  10. Once churned, transfer the ice cream into an airtight container.  Seal and freeze for at least 4 hours.
The resulting ice cream is a real treat – dark and semi-sweet with a pleasant, tang of orange that grows with each spoonful.  It tastes remarkably like one of those Terry’s Milk Chocolate Orange Balls but far less cloying.  This ice cream is best eaten alone or, at most, with a little crystallized orange candy and perhaps a touch of whipped cream.

Enjoy!

Overview
  • Base prep time: at least 1 hour
  • Base chill time: at least 4 hours (preferably overnight)
  • Ice cream set time: at least 4 hours
  • Taste: semi-sweet and dark with a pleasant orange tang
  • Difficulty: medium (a lot of little steps)
  • Expense level: low to medium
  • Makes: at least 5 cups

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